Samsung Dryer Making a Loud Noise or Not Heating? Here's What's Going On

If you own a Samsung dryer, there's a good chance you're reading this because it's either making a terrible noise or it's tumbling but not actually drying your clothes. I'm not guessing — these are the two most common Samsung dryer problems I deal with, and I see them 3-4 times a week here in Utah.

The good news? Both issues are fixable, and I can usually tell you what's wrong just based on what it sounds like or what it's doing. Let me walk you through both problems so you know what you're dealing with before you call anyone.

Problem #1: Samsung Dryer Making a Loud Noise

A Samsung dryer that suddenly starts making a loud thumping, squealing, or rumbling noise is almost always one of three things: worn drum rollers, a bad idler pulley, or a failing blower wheel. Each one sounds a little different, so let's break them down.

Worn Drum Rollers (Thumping / Rumbling)

This is the most common one by far. Your Samsung dryer sits on small rubber rollers that support the drum as it spins. Over time, those rollers wear down, develop flat spots, and eventually the metal shaft starts grinding. You'll hear a rhythmic thumping or rumbling sound that gets worse as the dryer heats up.

Here's something I tell every customer: Samsung dryers are known for drum rollers wearing out faster than other brands. I'm not sure if it's the rubber compound they use or the bearing design, but I replace Samsung drum rollers more than any other brand. On a Whirlpool or Maytag dryer, rollers might last 12-15 years. On a Samsung, I've seen them go bad in 4-5 years.

Bad Idler Pulley (Squealing / Screeching)

The idler pulley keeps tension on the belt that spins the drum. When the bearing inside the pulley starts to fail, you'll hear a high-pitched squealing or screeching sound — usually loudest right when the dryer starts, then it might quiet down a bit as things warm up.

If you're hearing a squeal, it's a matter of time before the pulley seizes completely and the belt snaps. At that point, the drum just won't spin at all. Better to catch it early.

Failing Blower Wheel (Rattling / Humming)

The blower wheel pulls hot air through the drum and pushes it out the exhaust vent. When it cracks, warps, or comes loose on the motor shaft, you'll hear a rattling or loud humming sound. Sometimes small items like socks or lint get past the filter and get caught in the blower housing, which creates a tapping noise.

If the noise seems like it's coming from the lower front of the dryer rather than the drum itself, the blower wheel is a likely suspect.

What You Can Check Yourself

• Clean the lint filter and exhaust vent. A clogged vent makes the blower work harder and can create extra noise. This is worth checking even if it's not the cause.
• Spin the drum by hand with the door open. Feel for wobble or grinding.
• Run the dryer empty and listen. If it's still noisy with nothing inside, it's mechanical — not a zipper or button bouncing around.
• Check for objects in the drum seal. Small items sometimes get between the drum and the front or rear bulkhead.

Problem #2: Samsung Dryer Not Heating

Your dryer runs, the drum spins, but the clothes come out damp after a full cycle. This is the "not heating" problem, and it's the other half of my Samsung dryer calls. Here are the usual suspects.

Burned-Out Heating Element

The heating element is a coil of wire that glows red-hot to heat the air. Over time, the coil can break — and when it does, no heat. Samsung uses a cylindrical heating element assembly that's pretty straightforward to test with a multimeter if you're comfortable with that. You're checking for continuity through the coil. If it's open (no continuity), the element is burned out.

On Samsung dryers, the heating element is usually located in the back of the machine. Accessing it requires removing the back panel, which isn't too bad.

Blown Thermal Fuse

The thermal fuse is a safety device that cuts power to the heater if the dryer gets too hot. Once it blows, it doesn't reset — the dryer will run but won't produce any heat. This is actually the single most common cause of a dryer not heating across all brands.

Faulty Thermistor

Samsung dryers use a thermistor (temperature sensor) to monitor the air temperature inside the drum. If the thermistor gives the control board a bad reading, the board might not turn on the heater at all, or it might cycle it off too early. This one's trickier to diagnose at home because you need to test resistance values at specific temperatures.

What You Can Check Yourself

• Check your exhaust vent first. Go outside and make sure air is blowing out the vent when the dryer is running. If it's weak or nothing's coming out, you have a clog. This is the #1 reason dryers overheat and blow fuses.
• Make sure you're on the right setting. Some Samsung dryers have a "Cool Air" or "Air Fluff" cycle that doesn't use heat. Sounds obvious, but it happens.
• Check the circuit breaker. Electric dryers use a 240V circuit with two breakers (or a double breaker). If one side trips, the dryer will run but the heating element won't work because it only gets half the voltage. Flip both breakers off and back on.
• Pull the dryer away from the wall and check that the exhaust hose isn't kinked or crushed.

When to Call a Pro

If the noise is clearly mechanical (thumping, squealing, grinding) or the dryer isn't heating after you've checked the vent and breaker, it's time for a technician. These repairs involve disassembling the dryer and working with electrical components, and the last thing you want is to create a fire hazard.

We work on Samsung dryers constantly — they're one of the most popular brands in Utah, and honestly, they keep us busy. Most Samsung dryer repairs can be done in a single visit once we know what part is needed.